Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
We hope you enjoy your visit.


You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.


Join our community!


If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Username:   Password:
Add Reply
How-to: RUST!; like we need help with it here in Ohio
Topic Started: Jan 25 2008, 05:36 PM (1,138 Views)
Old Busted Hotness
Member Avatar
I <3 moss
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Rust is one of those little touches that makes the difference between a "trail beater" and "just restored" look to your truck. It's not hard to do, but there is a bit of technique. Do it right, and you'll end up with a gnarly, rusty heap. Do it wrong and you'll have brown paint on a shiny paint job.

So here's how.

Start with a selection of rust-colored paint. I've picked out Tamiya flat black, flat brown, and red brown, along with Faskolor orange.

Posted Image

You'll also need a paint brush and a glass of water. And obviously, something to paint. We'll practice on a leftover fender.

First thing, dip the brush in the red-brown, then dip it in the water. Paint the maximum area you want to rust. This is known as "wash painting", similar to watercoloring. Don't worry about getting full coverage. It helps to scuff the underlying paint a little, and make sure it's free of wax.

Posted Image

Next, dip the brush in the flat brown, then quickly into the water. Try not to pick up as much water as before. Do another wash, while the first one is still wet. The idea is to mix them, but not thoroughly. Try to put one wash on top of the other (impossible, they'll mix around the edges. That's what you want it to do)

Posted Image

You've got enough water now, so put a few drops of flat black in. The water will spread the paint around. You can move the paint where you want, but try not to mix it too much.

Posted Image

Go back again with just water this time, while everything's still wet. Don't soak it, just a few drops from the brush to smear the paint around a little:

Posted Image

Now drop in the orange. A little goes a long way. Let it sit in a puddle. The water will pull the edges out and help to blend it with the rest of the colors. It's okay to help it along some, but try to leave it alone as much as you can.

Posted Image

Go do something else for a couple hours. This part's boring.


Posted Image

When you come back, you'll have a piece that looks a lot like rust.

Also try mixing black and orange on a wet brush. Dip the brush into the orange, then just the tip into the black. You'll get two colors with each stroke, easily blended into a brownish hue, black and orange round the edges.

Do it right and you can get great results.

Posted Image

A little research helps in figuring out which areas of your particular model should be rusted. FJ40's rust along the rear panel, wheel arches and at the spot welds on the back fenders. Any vehicle left in the elements long enough will lose paint on horizontal surfaces like hood and roof panels. Google is your friend.

Above all, have fun. That's what it's all about :banana:
Posted Image

Run what ya brung, unless it's your mouth.

MSD Team Driver
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
sloppy
Member Avatar
Im batman
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
nice one stu. when I use to do alot of static models one of the other things that i had tried with some success was real rust. you can pick up brillo bads and let them soak in soda or just leave some sittin out in open jar with a little brine water. then scrap the rust from the bottom. it is real hard to beat the flakes and color you will get from real rust. I think the biggest thing with rusting and weathering is multiple techniques so you really get the variations you need.
Posted Image

<a href="http://www.danasoft.com"><img src="http://www.danasoft.com/sig/sloppysign.jpg" border="0"></a><div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px;"><p> </p></div>
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
gadge
NOSTR Newbie
[ *  * ]
not a big fan of rust myself butgot a hint 4u
i use to build military models..had a lot!..to simulate battle damage thin the matl. from behind w/ dremel tool..sandin drum worked good then w/x-acto knife push through from behind while wigglein the knife to (shred the metal)
painted int/ext before ripping
dents bullet holes riped metal all possible w this method

....ummm practice on scrap??........
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
NickRummy
Member Avatar
NOSTR Photographer & Styrene Pimp
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Very nice Stu! I have something in mind for this technique. Thanks!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Tips and Tricks & Technical How-To · Next Topic »
Add Reply