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wild whippies
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Squeaker
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Has the vet suggested salicylic acid?
It's used in many cosmetic preparations (at very low levels) to increase cell shedding and softening of skin tissue. I'd enquire about any appropiate veterinary preparations that may be available.
The only thing with hyperkeratosis is frictional rubbing can exascerbate the condition and I'd be worried that while initially you got a good result, the condition itself would come back quicker and more aggresively. Not only that but as dremmels heat up very fast, it's not like you'd be doing this in a quick stint, you'd have to do it gradually (thus prolonging the period of rubbing) Maybe it'd be best asking those experienced whether they feel it would be beneficial?
Something that's completely non-toxic to dogs which is very good for softening and moisturising paw pads is Shaw's Paw Wax. I use it on the racers because the pads are less likely to crack and split with this stuff and I've found that having supple (but well keratinised paw pads) makes them a lot more robust to injury than when products have been used to toughen / tighten or dry the pads out e.g. surgical spirit. The advantage for your with this is that by softening the pads, it should make removal of hyperkeratinised tissue a lot easier.
If you do get the ok for dremmeling, I'd still use the paw wax because even the slightest bit of retained moisture in the pads will be beneficial not only for making it easier to be removed but also to couteract some of the rapid heating that can occur. I also suspect it'll make the whole process easier to do too because a nice paw masssage of wax after you've done the dremmeling will make the experience slightly more pleasant for your dog.



Here's a thread I did on another website for anyone interested in dremmeling.


Here's my 'Dremmel' bought from B&Q for £30 it came with the extension lead and stand you see here along with a load of drill bits and plenty of sanding discs

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Close up image of sanding disc drill bit

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One of my dogs nails here, as you can see the tips are just starting to make full contact with the floor as he's stood still.

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Here I've cleaned up his nails with a 10% peroxide solution and an old toothbrush. I find it gives better visibility of the nail and the vein but also highlights any cracks in the nails and cleanses the dogs cuticles which may have sand / debris ingrained in them.

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When I first started doing my dogs nails I would just switch the dremmel on in it's stand and encourage them to come near and reward with treats. (Don't have any drill bits in incase they want to sniff it!) I would then just try to literally brush it over their nails and then go over the top with praise for them being good. This I did over days rather than minutes so it become a routine to them.

Next model is Riley who is quite a timid dog when it comes to being poked and prodded. I get all dogs that are new to this to stand between my legs because if your on your own doing this, they could bolt off and run into the cables etc. If you've got an extra hand though you may prefer to have one person hold while the other files.

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For back nails on all my dogs I always stand them supported between my legs because they seem more assured if their body is suppported whilst a back leg is raised.
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Finally a close up, hold the dremmel with a thumb extended, as it guides your movement. Extend the nail and support the toe as you file, this puts vibration down to a minimum and keeps your movement smooth and the nail still. DO NOT file for more than a few seconds as the doberdog link says, these things can heat up quick and it will put your dog off permanently!

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Hope this was useful
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nail dremmeling · Grooming