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Faucet Aerator Help
Topic Started: Dec 5 2016, 04:45 AM (400 Views)
Trotsky
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Big City Boy
As everyone knows we hooked up a portable dishwasher.
Sink faucet had aerator removed and replaced with the top part of a quick release. See attached image I hope.
It was a bit difficult to thread onto the faucet.

Problem is that it now sprays all over the place when the water is on anything but a trickle.
Since we run the dishwasher every day, replacing it with a regular faucet aerator is out of the question. I KNOW in a short while I would eventually cross thread the faucet and that is $$$.

Have any of you seen something that would attach to this quick release and temper the water flow. Something made specifically for quick release or some general product of soft rubber.
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Edited by Trotsky, Dec 5 2016, 04:56 AM.
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Dialtone
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We used to have a portable dishwasher that threaded onto the faucet, worked OK for our use at the time. If you have leaks from around the threads, buy a roll of teflon tape and put a couple turns on the threads, then put the adaptor back on. Teflon tape is inexpensive and available at any hardware store, I think even the dollar store sells it as well.
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Durgan
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Ya have to play. The threads around that area are lousy. I used one of those portables for years, but now cannot remember the details of the fitting, but I know it took some juggling.

It might be better to install a dedicated supply for the dishwasher and avoid connections from the sink area. There are some marvellous plumbing connections available today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnjY4419BRs Study for awhile. This is all I use now. I get mine from Home Depot.

Edited by Durgan, Dec 5 2016, 05:12 AM.
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erka
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Trotsky: have you considered a "Y hose adapter" with shut off? These are available at hardware and garden shops.
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wildie
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Trotsky
Dec 5 2016, 04:45 AM
As everyone knows we hooked up a portable dishwasher.
Sink faucet had aerator removed and replaced with the top part of a quick release. See attached image I hope.
It was a bit difficult to thread onto the faucet.

Problem is that it now sprays all over the place when the water is on anything but a trickle.
Since we run the dishwasher every day, replacing it with a regular faucet aerator is out of the question. I KNOW in a short while I would eventually cross thread the faucet and that is $$$.

Have any of you seen something that would attach to this quick release and temper the water flow. Something made specifically for quick release or some general product of soft rubber.
Would you consider installing a second faucet beside the existing one, just for connection to the washer? One of the old fashioned ones, with a threaded spigot!
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Durgan
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I would T off the hot and cold under the sink with a shut of valve on each connection. Then T the two together, with a shut off valve. One hole up running to the top of the counter, and put a proper connection on for the dishwasher. This would take about an hour with few tools. Use shark bite fittings. Look at it carefully and you might find a salesman who can explain methodology.
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wildie
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Durgan
Dec 5 2016, 10:53 AM
I would T off the hot and cold under the sink with a shut of valve on each connection. Then T the two together, with a shut off valve. One hole up running to the top of the counter, and put a proper connection on for the dishwasher. This would take about an hour with few tools. Use shark bite fittings. Look at it carefully and you might find a salesman who can explain methodology.
Durgan, a supply of cold water for the washer would be unnecessary. Thats why I suggested using a single faucet with a threaded spigot that would fit the washer connection.
Using the Shark-bite fittings would be good. Alternatively a saddle connector could be used on the hot-water pipe if space were at a premium.
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Trotsky
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Big City Boy
THanks guys,

Those sharkbite fittings are very cool and I see they are sold at Home Depot.

My unit warns me NOT to leave the plastic hoses connected permanently without relieving the line pressure. (A burst hose while I am not home would be the worst of nightmares.) I am also slightly loathe to drill a hole into my countertop.

Quote:
 
Trotsky: have you considered a "Y hose adapter" with shut off?


Erka, could you amplify on that?

I am thinking maybe something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Slip-On-Flexible-Rubber-Faucet-Aerator-Adjustable-Spray-Helping-Hand-/112021297670

THe nipple is .642 inches and if it hold tight it looks easy enough to pop on between dishwashing loads, even if these thingys are plug ugly.. I am really getting tired of cleaning up sprayed water.
Edited by Trotsky, Dec 6 2016, 03:39 AM.
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Durgan
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Only one pipe, that is a cinch. I just looked at mine. I "t" into the hot with a shut off valve under the sink, and put the necessary connection on. At that time I used compression fittings. Alligator fittings were not available. I also tee into the drain which was black plastic.

With a portable it is probably best to go into the fittings under the sink by opening the door to connect to simplify connections. Only as a last resort.

Also to really simplify it may be easier to change the top kitchen sink faucets and get a firm connection. I would look at this route carefully, since that is basically how the connections are designed on the dishwasher. With the proper faucets the connection is perfect, but the plumbing manufacturers make junk today. You have to look around.


The connection pipes do not burst today. All clothes washers use plastic or rubber pipes.

Forget the shower adaptor. It is a disaster in the making.

What complicates a moveable portable is the drain and water are together. Drain basically to go into an open sink.
Edited by Durgan, Dec 6 2016, 03:50 AM.
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Trotsky
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Big City Boy
Quote:
 
With a portable it is probably best to go into the fittings under the sink by opening the door to connect to simplify connections.
Open door with a hose into it is a no-no.

Quote:
 
Also to really simplify it may be easier to change the top kitchen sink faucets and get a firm connection.

Another no-no, since I replaced my faucet only 2 years ago ($90.) It ain't happening again in my lifetime. <Getting a sore back just REMEMBERING my day under the sink with a couple of frozen fittings.>
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Durgan
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Trotsky
Dec 6 2016, 03:45 AM
Quote:
 
With a portable it is probably best to go into the fittings under the sink by opening the door to connect to simplify connections.
Open door with a hose into it is a no-no.

Quote:
 
Also to really simplify it may be easier to change the top kitchen sink faucets and get a firm connection.

Another no-no, since I replaced my faucet only 2 years ago ($90.) It ain't happening again in my lifetime. <Getting a sore back just REMEMBERING my day under the sink with a couple of frozen fittings.>
Hey it is not easy. Plumbing never turns out like you think it will. Another issue is one does it so seldom that previously learned skills get forgotten. Working under a sink is a real misery. Plan carefully and have all available at the finger tips. Insure you have shut off valves installed. There are neat ones today, that simply screw on.
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wildie
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Durgan
Dec 6 2016, 03:36 AM
Only one pipe, that is a cinch. I just looked at mine. I "t" into the hot with a shut off valve under the sink, and put the necessary connection on. At that time I used compression fittings. Alligator fittings were not available. I also tee into the drain which was black plastic.

With a portable it is probably best to go into the fittings under the sink by opening the door to connect to simplify connections. Only as a last resort.

Also to really simplify it may be easier to change the top kitchen sink faucets and get a firm connection. I would look at this route carefully, since that is basically how the connections are designed on the dishwasher. With the proper faucets the connection is perfect, but the plumbing manufacturers make junk today. You have to look around.


The connection pipes do not burst today. All clothes washers use plastic or rubber pipes.

Forget the shower adaptor. It is a disaster in the making.

What complicates a moveable portable is the drain and water are together. Drain basically to go into an open sink.
I had rubber hoses burst at my cottage once. My son was staying there and had placed a load of laundry to wash while he was away. Laundry washers are always turning off and on the water and the surge caused the hose to split.
I replaced these hoses with the stainless steel braided hoses. After this experience, I have always used the braided hoses since.
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wildie
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Trotsky
Dec 6 2016, 03:28 AM
THanks guys,

Those sharkbite fittings are very cool and I see they are sold at Home Depot.

My unit warns me NOT to leave the plastic hoses connected permanently without relieving the line pressure. (A burst hose while I am not home would be the worst of nightmares.) I am also slightly loathe to drill a hole into my countertop.

Quote:
 
Trotsky: have you considered a "Y hose adapter" with shut off?


Erka, could you amplify on that?

I am thinking maybe something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Slip-On-Flexible-Rubber-Faucet-Aerator-Adjustable-Spray-Helping-Hand-/112021297670

THe nipple is .642 inches and if it hold tight it looks easy enough to pop on between dishwashing loads, even if these thingys are plug ugly.. I am really getting tired of cleaning up sprayed water.

Quote:
 
My unit warns me NOT to leave the plastic hoses connected permanently without relieving the line pressure. (A burst hose while I am not home would be the worst of nightmares.) I am also slightly loathe to drill a hole into my counter top!


Why not drill the hole? If you want to get rid of the washer, chrome plated blank covers are available to close off where the hole is!
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Durgan
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Is the system leaking at the thread? The thread looks substantial if it is, then Teflon tape would work. There is even enough thread for inserting an O ring. If leaking at the push on that is another thing and not sure of.
Edited by Durgan, Dec 6 2016, 06:17 AM.
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Durgan
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That problem still haunts me. I don't believe the leak is from the thread. I believe it is from the push on connection. It will leak if there I any unnatural stress on the connection. A simple solution is to wrap a cloth to sop up the water spraying and allow it to run down the drain or juggle the connection to prevent leaking.
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